It will work.. did saw my mecanic this morning..told me they suggest to change the sensor but it never work.. Need to replace balance shaft.. and while there, timing chain.. he refer me to a specialist, and when i called him, it saif the same..
Low oil pressure stop car warning
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Hello everybody , I am new here and joined to help out .
I work quite a lot on European cars and a lot on VW and Audi .
Here a small tip guide for most common issues on the 2.0 .
shaving/carbon build up In engine ( plastic and metal or just dirt )
how do they affect oil pressure : when engine is cold the oil pressure on vehicle looks fine and stays like it up to 30 minutes , after that the engine is at operating temperature and the engine oil viscosity changed and the oilpick up stream at the oil pick up tube changed , important is to know that the pick up tube has a very small clearance towards the oil pan so it’s act like a vacuum cleaner and sucks all the shavings and dirt up and clogged the screen inside the pick up tube . Oil pan needs to be removed and pick up tube is recommended to be replaced .
ofC the sensor it self is also a common issue but shouldn’t be just replaced without manually checking oil pressure with a gauge .
mother common issue specially on higher mileage engines are worn out balance shaft bearings . Engine needs to be removed to perform that kind of repair and remove and replace the engine balance shaft .
Another issue also common for the 2.0 is engine oil consumption ( caused by worn piston rings , bad pcv valve , bad valve stem seals and turbo charger ) it leaks not in a huge rapid amount so the car would crate a lots of blue smoke as a easy indicator it does it slow and permanently .
correct oil pressure for the CCTA engine at operating temperature,
Idle 17.4 - 30.45 psi
At 2k rpm 23.2 - 30.45 psi
At 3.7k rpm 43.5 - 58 psi
For high mileage engines I personally recommend with a low oil pressure issue to choose as a repair the balance shaft kit repair or replace engine with a long lock ( reman is ok ) ofc if the oil pressure values are not in specification .
everything else you hear on this forum thread like
broken screen from camshaft retainer bracket , is not a cause of low oil pressure it mir like cause a p0016 code for cam crank timing correlation or coder for cam crank performance . It also can damage cam sprocket which require a camshaft replacement . Timing chains on those engines have also joe a extended warranty .
that’s it for now
Hope
Y’all can figure out your issues and get your cars fixed
I work quite a lot on European cars and a lot on VW and Audi .
Here a small tip guide for most common issues on the 2.0 .
shaving/carbon build up In engine ( plastic and metal or just dirt )
how do they affect oil pressure : when engine is cold the oil pressure on vehicle looks fine and stays like it up to 30 minutes , after that the engine is at operating temperature and the engine oil viscosity changed and the oilpick up stream at the oil pick up tube changed , important is to know that the pick up tube has a very small clearance towards the oil pan so it’s act like a vacuum cleaner and sucks all the shavings and dirt up and clogged the screen inside the pick up tube . Oil pan needs to be removed and pick up tube is recommended to be replaced .
ofC the sensor it self is also a common issue but shouldn’t be just replaced without manually checking oil pressure with a gauge .
mother common issue specially on higher mileage engines are worn out balance shaft bearings . Engine needs to be removed to perform that kind of repair and remove and replace the engine balance shaft .
Another issue also common for the 2.0 is engine oil consumption ( caused by worn piston rings , bad pcv valve , bad valve stem seals and turbo charger ) it leaks not in a huge rapid amount so the car would crate a lots of blue smoke as a easy indicator it does it slow and permanently .
correct oil pressure for the CCTA engine at operating temperature,
Idle 17.4 - 30.45 psi
At 2k rpm 23.2 - 30.45 psi
At 3.7k rpm 43.5 - 58 psi
For high mileage engines I personally recommend with a low oil pressure issue to choose as a repair the balance shaft kit repair or replace engine with a long lock ( reman is ok ) ofc if the oil pressure values are not in specification .
everything else you hear on this forum thread like
broken screen from camshaft retainer bracket , is not a cause of low oil pressure it mir like cause a p0016 code for cam crank timing correlation or coder for cam crank performance . It also can damage cam sprocket which require a camshaft replacement . Timing chains on those engines have also joe a extended warranty .
that’s it for now
Hope
Y’all can figure out your issues and get your cars fixed
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I bought a 2011 2.0T Tiguan for my son. 88k miles. Same issue. When driving highway speeds (2500-3000 rpm) everything is fine. It's when we pull onto a side street and reduce speed, the oil notification comes on. Seems to only happen at lower speeds after being at higher speed for more than 20 min.
Supposedly, the independent dealer we bought it from had the oil pan dropped and the pickup tube screen "cleaned". Seemed to be fine for a week or so but the notification came on again last night.
I have no previous service history other than new tires in Nov. 2021.
Supposedly, the independent dealer we bought it from had the oil pan dropped and the pickup tube screen "cleaned". Seemed to be fine for a week or so but the notification came on again last night.
I have no previous service history other than new tires in Nov. 2021.
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4,070 Posts
Most likely the screen in the cam phaser.
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Did it work? I have the same issue.
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Hi mate, mine is 2009 model TIGUAN and I have almost exactly the same issue after 100k. It happens around half hour drive. Started by inteval warning, if I keep driving, the low engine oil red sign eventually keeps flashing. Driving in high speed can last a bit longer but still shows the warning after maybe one hour.
Since they are so many similar cases, just wondering if we ignore it, if it's eventually will cause engine failure? Thanks.
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This happens when the screen in the cam phaser is plugging. Ignoring it will cause permanent engine damage!!!!! You have to remove the cam phaser disassemble it and clean the screen that protects the phaser. Also be sure to stay to lower mile service intervals as the engine wears. 5k intervals is what I’ve done from 30k miles and I’m at 90k now. No issues. The turbo will be the first item to fail as it’s the most sensitive to oil pressure loss. Then the cams will fail. Then kiss the motor goodbye. NEVER IGNORE ANY WARNING SIGNS!!! It’s telling you you have an issue that needs to be resolved or boom! Engine stops and then you have a $6-8k engine replacement bill. I am speaking from years of experience. Get it into a competent mechanic asap! Get the oil pressure checked by a gauge most will have ones with long hoses to monitor while driving.
Also remember these motors all have oil consumption issues. Using a quality oil helps burn off but using OE spec oil the acceptable loss is 1qt per 2500 miles. And that’s normal! I have switched to Liqui moly and have stopped the consumption but I still do have a minor leak that requires a bit of topping off occasionally. Plus rear main seals are prone to fail randomly. Petrol engine prior to 2013 all had failure prone timing tensioners. All are accelerated by poor oil flow so once again
GET IT CHECKED!
Also remember these motors all have oil consumption issues. Using a quality oil helps burn off but using OE spec oil the acceptable loss is 1qt per 2500 miles. And that’s normal! I have switched to Liqui moly and have stopped the consumption but I still do have a minor leak that requires a bit of topping off occasionally. Plus rear main seals are prone to fail randomly. Petrol engine prior to 2013 all had failure prone timing tensioners. All are accelerated by poor oil flow so once again
GET IT CHECKED!
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I know the solution for the low oil pressure engine off.. contact me [email protected]
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How about you kindly share with everyone. Its a know issue.
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2012 Tiguan with 156,000 miles. I had an oil change at Jiffy Lube and noticed oil leaking in my garage. Took it back to them and they “fixed that issue” but I had to go to a mechanic for him to fix the threads on the drain plug. I also had him do an oil change. About 2 weeks later I started getting the red, low oil pressure message. It only happened at low speeds or while stopped in traffic.
Took it to the dealer and had them change the oil and had no problem for 2-3 weeks. Then it started again. Even at highway speeds. I checked my oil this weekend and it was on the low end of the normal range. I added a quart but the low pressure warning continued to pop up intermittently.
Took it back to the dealer and they quoted me $1600 to reseal the cam cover, which they say is leaking oil - but I didn’t see any evidence of this when I changed my spark plugs over the weekend. Does this sound like a likely repair that will resolve the issue? Is this quote high for the work they will be doing?
For about a year I have also been seeing P0299 errors in hot weather. I live in Dallas so that is like 1/2 the year. I stopped seeing this error over the weekend.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Took it to the dealer and had them change the oil and had no problem for 2-3 weeks. Then it started again. Even at highway speeds. I checked my oil this weekend and it was on the low end of the normal range. I added a quart but the low pressure warning continued to pop up intermittently.
Took it back to the dealer and they quoted me $1600 to reseal the cam cover, which they say is leaking oil - but I didn’t see any evidence of this when I changed my spark plugs over the weekend. Does this sound like a likely repair that will resolve the issue? Is this quote high for the work they will be doing?
For about a year I have also been seeing P0299 errors in hot weather. I live in Dallas so that is like 1/2 the year. I stopped seeing this error over the weekend.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Soo.. I just had this happen to my 2015. I had around 95k on it. The dealer set my oil levels and told me to come in 1k later..500 miles later my lights started going off again. The dealer told me to immediately bring it in. My car consumed 2.5 quarts of oil in those 500 miles! It wasn't the cam shaft sensor or anything else we replaced. I had an oil consumption problem and thankfully I got the extended warranty up to 100k. Your one mechanic might be right about you needing an engine. Good luck. It sucks.
Nope, no smoke. Trust me, I would've taken it in a lot sooner than I did if there was. They talked about doing something else to the engine but after that they decided to just replace the whole thing.
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I just had the same problem last weekend. When a new oil pressure switch I put in didn’t fix the issue I checked the wiring to that oil pressure switch. It had continuity. But I noticed it goes directly into the cam position sensor. So on a whim I replaced the cam position sensor. It completely fixed the issue.
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I totally understand what you’re saying. How much did all this cost you, if it’s okay to ask. I can’t afford much right now and this is stressful.
Hi All, I just purchased a used 2011 Tiguan yesterday, and it turns out I have the same problem of red light oil pressure!
As I understand your testimonials, this is due to old oil deposit that, when the engine comes hot, goes into delicate mechanical parts and blocks the oil flux. Some of you indicates that replacing these delicate parts like Balance Shafts or Cam Phaser could solve the problem.
Did anyone tried to clean the engine with some cleaning oil additives, then drain the dirty oil, replace the oil filter and fill with good oil?
As I understand your testimonials, this is due to old oil deposit that, when the engine comes hot, goes into delicate mechanical parts and blocks the oil flux. Some of you indicates that replacing these delicate parts like Balance Shafts or Cam Phaser could solve the problem.
Did anyone tried to clean the engine with some cleaning oil additives, then drain the dirty oil, replace the oil filter and fill with good oil?
@JulienD My daughter has 2012 SEL 2WD that had the same intermittent warning for months. We dropped the oil pan to inspect the pickup screen but it was fine. Still had the intermittent light (and warning bell that was quite startling) in hot weather. Ran a quart of STP Synthetic Engine Flush through it at the next oil change and haven't had a warning since. That was over a year ago. The flush was enough to open up any partially clogged areas (cam screen?) I guess.
Just passed 100k miles and budgeting for a timing chain and tensioner replacement since she loves the car. She has the newer tensioner but it appears to be fully extended.
Just passed 100k miles and budgeting for a timing chain and tensioner replacement since she loves the car. She has the newer tensioner but it appears to be fully extended.
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