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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,
I have a 2012 tiguan TSI 2.0 with 130,000 miles. I get the red low oil pressure stop car warning light intermittently. After maybe 30 min of driving it comes on then right after 3 beeps it goes off.
It started after I took it to the dealer for a oil change. After I left the light went on. Took it back and they changed out oil presure switch/sensor and another oil change. They also said that oil pressure was checked and within spec.

A couple of days after I got a yellow engine warning light and had it checked. It was p0301. So I switched the plug wire 1 with 2 and light went off.

The red oil pressure warning still goes off so i took my tiguan to another mechanic to check oil pressure. He said it's within spec, at the low end but in spec. I asked what could help with this issue and he recommended oil pump and pickup tube. So I had that done. It worked for awhile but now it's back.
I took it back to the place I had the oil pump changed out and they said oil pressure within spec no oil leaks found and can't replicate warning, all good.
If it keeps coming up I may need a new/used engine the mechanic said.

I was driving the car to the store a couple days ago and car wanted to stall, yellow engine warning light went on and off so I had a code reader hooked up to it and it gave my p0304.
So now no yellow engine warning lights but red low oil pressure light comes on after 30 min. or so of driving, it goes on then 3 beeps and off.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you for your time.
 

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Get a scan with vcds, see what comes up. Could be something internal to the engine causing intermittent oil pressure drops. I'd be curious to what they are doing to measure oil pressure as it's quite the job to get at the port to hook a gauge. Vcds cannot even see oil pressure. Oil temp yes. But if it's at the low end of spec, it's probably getting time to look at a replacement. Also when they changed the pump did they slo do the timing chains? If chains have not been done by 130k miles they are over do. A stretched lower oil pump chain could cause intermittent issues. What have you been using for oil and oil change intervals?
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I will have to see about purchasing a vcds. The timing chain was not replaced and im not sure how the oil pressure was checked. The oil change intervals have been per the dealer recommendations. They slap a sticker on the windshield with due date and mileage. They used castrol 5W40.
 

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So you are doing 10k mile extended then? It's highly recommend to do 5k services on Gen1/2 EA888 motors. Dealer wants you do 10k which depending bon circumstances will shorten oil life. Also monitor oil level as every vehicle I've had burns castrol, which is normal but using Liqui Moly my consumption disappeared. Castrol I was burning a quart every 5k.
 
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I would love to know why they changed the cam phaser. If it just failed, fine, but if it was sticking, this could indicate a greater problem with sludge in all the wrong places. If memory serve me right, there is a tiny filter screen in the cam bridge that feeds the phaser (and is not listed in any service manual), and if it clogs can give you a very valid low oil pressure warning. Fixing that is not one of the easier tasks.
 

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There is a pre filter screen to the phaser. I have heard of this issue. I believe the Gen 3 removed said screen.
 

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This is a good example why I dislike Dealer Service Intervals on Turbo Charged engines. Those that do it every 10k miles I've heard engines failing at 110-120k miles usual the turbo goes out or sludge in the top end wipes a cam out. 5k is a good and what i do as well as many others. Keeps a lot of things happy keeping fresh oil pumping thru. I'm coming up on 80k and I'm going to try and use the Liqui Moly Engine flush kit with the CeraTec Additive I won in a drawing over the winter. I'm curious to see what that flush is able to knock out.. as I usually buy the 5L jug of oil and after draining I'll use that 1/2-1/4 L left in the old jug and dumpmin the motor with the plug out. It's been getting darker and darker as the miles pile on. Engine sludging is a killer and can plug the cam phaser screen and I believe there is another screen elsewhere bthatvcan plug essentially starving critical areas from getting proper oil flow. If you have tested and verified oil pressure is within spec and the lights on it is most likely the sensor. If the oil pressure is anywhere near the bottom of spec, it's safe to assume the oil galleys have sludge in them. TSI engines run their oil a bit hot due to a fluid to fluid cooler found on top of the transmission. So if your engine is running at 90C/190F your oils is going to be about 220-230F. Maybe lower on a fresh engine. I worked on a friend's GTI before his top end failed due to said Screen on the phaser and monitoring his oil temp he was 275F!!! Oil wasn't getting to the cooler.. wiped out the intake cam, jumped a tooth on the timing as the tensioner was the original revision and took the motor out. It was ugly inside. And he was lucky to do it every 10k. He was using "extended service" oil and changing it every 15-20k since that's what the dealer said to do.

Sergio, what motor do you have? If it's the petrol EA888.1 please get your cam chain tensioner inspected asap!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The work order I found say engine oil leak found 5.50 performed an reseal to the cylinder head cover (cambridge). While performing repair replace the brake vacuum pump and the camshaft adjustment valve. I never saw a oil leak. So I thought maybe a small leak somewhere in the back so I had them perform the recommended oil leak fix.
What do you guys think my next course of action should be, chain tensioner?

Sergio if you find the fix please post and I will do the same.

Thank you all for your time and advise.
 

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Yes it's a petrol, TSI

This is a good example why I dislike Dealer Service Intervals on Turbo Charged engines. Those that do it every 10k miles I've heard engines failing at 110-120k miles usual the turbo goes out or sludge in the top end wipes a cam out. 5k is a good and what i do as well as many others. Keeps a lot of things happy keeping fresh oil pumping thru. I'm coming up on 80k and I'm going to try and use the Liqui Moly Engine flush kit with the CeraTec Additive I won in a drawing over the winter. I'm curious to see what that flush is able to knock out.. as I usually buy the 5L jug of oil and after draining I'll use that 1/2-1/4 L left in the old jug and dumpmin the motor with the plug out. It's been getting darker and darker as the miles pile on. Engine sludging is a killer and can plug the cam phaser screen and I believe there is another screen elsewhere bthatvcan plug essentially starving critical areas from getting proper oil flow. If you have tested and verified oil pressure is within spec and the lights on it is most likely the sensor. If the oil pressure is anywhere near the bottom of spec, it's safe to assume the oil galleys have sludge in them. TSI engines run their oil a bit hot due to a fluid to fluid cooler found on top of the transmission. So if your engine is running at 90C/190F your oils is going to be about 220-230F. Maybe lower on a fresh engine. I worked on a friend's GTI before his top end failed due to said Screen on the phaser and monitoring his oil temp he was 275F!!! Oil wasn't getting to the cooler.. wiped out the intake cam, jumped a tooth on the timing as the tensioner was the original revision and took the motor out. It was ugly inside. And he was lucky to do it every 10k. He was using "extended service" oil and changing it every 15-20k since that's what the dealer said to do.

Sergio, what motor do you have? If it's the petrol EA888.1 please get your cam chain tensioner inspected asap!!
 

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The tensioner was just a side note as his profile says it's a a 2012. But agreed get a good scan and we can continue to help.
 

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i'm glad I found this blog because I am having the same issue with the oil pressure light after about 30 miles. Mechanic says oil pressure is fine, but the warning light doesn't go off when he checks it. Now I'm very worried after reading this that there is a sludge issue. I have 94k miles, perhaps having the engine flushed will help? I will also ask them to check the cam phaser screen, oil pump and pickup tube.
 

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Welcome to myTiguan.com JenLD and thanks for joining our Tiggy Forum.

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We look forward to your participation and contributions down the road.

Cheers!

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I remember on my Audi a4, the bonnet had to be opened and closed which would reset oil light problems. Sometimes the microswitch on the bonnet latch wears out and doesnt detect if the bonnet is open or not. Checking the dash door open display will point out if the switch is broken. Not sure if this applies to VW?
 

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What these shops need to do is hook up the pressure gauge where the sensor is with a long hose and test drive it. So that we can watch oil pressure across the room range and if it goes erratic on deceleration. Doing static idle and rev pressure tests usually don't get anywhere.

@Stevie haven't heard that one in a long time. Only switch is in the hood release and if it was bad the mfd would be screaming at you the hood is open while in gear.
 

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Late to this my Tiguan has 250K

I had a similar problem with the red oil pressure light coming on. Mechanic first changed the sensor but th eproblem persisted.

He then changed this part
06H 198 205N balance shaft kit

I know nothing about cars but am questioning if I just got shafted.

Quite an expensive procedure. Not sure what the result will be, Up to now he has been a terrific mechanic
 

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Late to this my Tiguan has 250K

I had a similar problem with the red oil pressure light coming on. Mechanic first changed the sensor but th eproblem persisted.

He then changed this part
06H 198 205N balance shaft kit

I know nothing about cars but am questioning if I just got shafted.

Quite an expensive procedure. Not sure what the result will be, Up to now he has been a terrific mechanic
Did it work. Having the same issue. My mechanic has chaged a sensor but the issue persists
 
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