1. Is the fuse area where I would hook up the OBD reader?

The port is below the door - not inside it.

 

The port is right next to the drivers foot-well light, stick you head in the foot-well and look up.

 

The port is right next to the drivers foot-well light, stick you head in the foot-well and look up.

And the fuses are behind the coin box/drawer. Open the drawer and pull gently and it will slip out revealing the fuses, do not force it.

 

Thanks! I connected my OBD reader & got codes P0300, P0301 & P0302. According to web, one of the common causes are faulty spark plugs. I don't think that's my problem since all 4 were changed 10,000 km (6 mths ago). But faulty fuel pump & O2 sensors could also be culprits. My fuel pump failed when the car wash less than 3 months old ....

 

Thanks! I connected my OBD reader & got codes P0300, P0301 & P0302. According to web, one of the common causes are faulty spark plugs. I don't think that's my problem since all 4 were changed 10,000 km (6 mths ago). But faulty fuel pump & O2 sensors could also be culprits. My fuel pump failed when the car wash less than 3 months old ....

Hi CandyWhite, may I draw your attention here on a Fuel Pump recall (see post #3) >>> http://www.mytiguan.com/index.php?/topic/21145-tiguan-recalls-canada/ . Was your car brought in for this?

BTW, it'd be nice to have another Canadian marker on the Tiggy Map of the World. If interested, have a look at the second link in my Sig on how to add yourself.

Cheers!

Old Dog

 

Hi, Old Dog:

Yes, I did see that recall about the fuel pump.
So in Sep, the dealer installed improved ECM software but didn't touch the fuel pump. Did they do anything to your fuel pump for that recall?
I was in the dealership again in Nov for the "Install Update fuse for position F16" - found no damage to fuse box.

My non-dealer mechanic was not too worried about the codes. We agreed I'd clear them & just monitor to see if they reoccurred.

That said, whilst Mr Lube was idling,then revving the engine after my oil change today, I thought I heard unusual noises. They didn't notice, but then they probably don't know what my engine should sound like & weren't listening for funny noises (I didn't mention the check erngine light). Then, whilst idling at a light, the car seemed to be shaking slightly a!though it sounded normal to me (even turned off the radio to listen) but there's also a wind warning in effect now so maybe that was causing it. I'm hoping that I'm just being a hypochondriac about the car ...

No, I hadn't thought of putting myself on the map. I thought everyone knows where Toronto is!

 

The DTCs indicate a misfire. If the DTCs were cleared and don't return, don't worry. If they return, then yes, have the car checked out.

The fuel pump recall is just a software update. No parts are changed. It does sound like it was done in Sept. You could call the dealer and ask.

Now on to Mr. Lube, why the H#ll would they need to rev the engine after changing the oil? Also, do they use VW approved oil? My regard for their quality of work, is quite low, hence the questions.

 

The DTCs indicate a misfire. If the DTCs were cleared and don't return, don't worry. If they return, then yes, have the car checked out.

The fuel pump recall is just a software update. No parts are changed. It does sound like it was done in Sept. You could call the dealer and ask.

Now on to Mr. Lube, why the H#ll would they need to rev the engine after changing the oil? Also, do they use VW approved oil? My regard for their quality of work, is quite low, hence the questions.

I too was surprised to see CandyWhite going to a Mr. Lube!!! Not even Midas or Canadian Tire IMHO. Best to find a shop that specializes in German cars. Now, if I only knew where Toronto was maybe I'd be able to give some referrals, lol.

Cheers!

 

Yes, Shawn & Old Dog:

I hestitated before typing Mr Lube, but since I'm usually asking for advice/opinions, thought that honesty was the best policy.

Going to Mr Lube was a pure convenience thing - I work "normal" business hrs and therefore any car maintenance requires that I arrange time off work. I had already spent most of the morning at my mechanic-across-town which was instructive, but did not result in an oil change. My home dealer would try to squeeze me in but would require waiting 1-1/2 hrs which I just wasn't in the mood for. If it counts for anything, I did bring my own oil and OEM filter. Also, at Mr Lube I can sit with my car which I don't think Canadian Tire would allow me to do. I simply don't know where the closest Midas location is. Do they have a better rep than Mr Lube?

Mr Lube "inspects" the car (eg cleaned my cabin air filter, checked the battery, etc), hence the engine revving. In fact, my battery was "very low" (coincidentally, they sell & install batteries). So I will have to get a 2nd opinion on that too.

I've read many of your posts, Shawn, & have often wished you were in Toronto: working on cars really seems like a labour of love, for you, not just a livelihood. Ever thought of relocating to Toronto? It is, after all, the centre of the universe

Regards

 

Ever thought of relocating to Toronto? It is, after all, the centre of the universe

Regards

Now, that brought one BIG frickin' smile to my face, hahaha. Centre of the universe, eh. Not sure where that is on the Tiggy Map tho, hehehe.

BTW, I wouldn't use Midas or CTC TBH and I like your honesty which is generally the best policy although I've been bitten in the butt a few times as a result for being too honest, lol.

Cheers!

 

Thanks for the compliment and I fully respect your decision to go to Mr. Lube. My comment was not meant to ridicule you , but to warn you of the pitfalls. At least you know what went in the car. Cabin filters can't be cleaned, and if you were in the car, did they actually go pull it out? It's in the cabin.

 

Confession is good for the soul they say, so... My Tig lives outside all year. So on it's 4th birthday (or 60k km), when I changed the cabin air filter for the very first time, I was surprised but not shocked, when some dried leaves, pine needles and lint fell out when I removed the filter.

So I was surprised, but not concerned, when Mr Lube took the cabin air filter out and shortly thereafter I heard some exaggeratedl banging which I assume was their way of showing how well they were cleaning the filter!

BTW, I read on another forum that the VW techs actually use the top extraction method on the Tigs, as opposed to draining from the bottom. Do you know if that's true, Shawn?

 

Just as info for you CandyWhite. Each and every time I took my 2011 Tig into my VW dealership over the nearly 4 years I had it, they always drained from the bottom. I too will be interested what Shawn says. Some people do extract from the top which saves them time from taking off the belly pan, but I wonder how effective this is? Shawn?

 

I would say that most VW techs would drain from the bottom for an oil change. I'm also one that would advise giving a Mr. Lube a wide berth. Long story short. Stripped oil pan threads many years ago. Maybe they have gotten better. These quick change places are convenient and that's where they get you.

 

I would say that most VW techs would drain from the bottom for an oil change. I'm also one that would advise giving a Mr. Lube a wide berth. Long story short. Stripped oil pan threads many years ago. Maybe they have gotten better. These quick change places are convenient and that's where they get you.

Two Garry's can't be wrong! Or can they, lol? :roll:

Garry

 

I am not fond of sucking the oil out of the dipstick, but there are some Mercedes that have no drain plug. I find it somewhat slow and messier because you then have to deal with draining a vacuum tank and clean dirty oil dripping tubing. A drain pan is just less mess. The only thing it migh not get all out is excessive water at the bottom of the pan, but if you have that much moisture, you have bigger problems. If you don't have access to a lift, it is less work. the belly pan doesn't have to come off and with the oil filter on top...

OK, enough rambling. Either way is fine. what's more important is regular oil changes.

 

Two Garry's can't be wrong! Or can they, lol? :roll:

Garry

Never Garry.

 

Thanks, CogenMan, for the link re: troubleshooting P030* codes. I'll have a look at it later. I've put approx100k on my car since Monday, and so far, no reoccurence of the check engine light.

And, as if to lend credence to everyone's warnings about Mr Lube - I found a screw in the passenger-side footwell when I next drove my car. It was one of the screws holding the soft covering under the glovebox/cabin air filter. So, paranoid after the discussions on this forum, I double-checked the air filter and then put everything back together again. Nothing awful/dangerous in this case.

Thanks, OD & Shawn, re the info on oil changes. Canadian Tire had 50% off the Castrol oil for Black Friday! Supposedly, the vw oil filter is no-drip, so I'm almost ready to buy a Mityvac to do my own top-extraction oil changes! That seems way easier than crawling under the car, etc...

Thanks again to everyone for all their help!

 

The 5W40 is WV approved and what the dealers use. It's a good oil. A real MityVac (as compared to Princess Auto stuff) is great: http://www.amazon.ca/Mityvac-7201-Fluid-Evacuator-Plus/dp/B0002SR7TC

We have this one in the shop, but we use it to fill things like transmissions on VWs.