Hi! Wifey's 2017 Wolfsburg Edition Tiguan with 27000 miles. We're located in east central PA. Snow ice rain coming soon. Windshield washer failed, wipers fine. rear washer failed too, wiper fine. Next warmer day, covers coming off and going to find /fix it BUT before any of that any suggestions helpful. already made a weird discovery- no fuses listings in owners manual, none under the fuse box covers-WTH! further digging, manual states consult dealer for accurrate fuse listing,not available at manufacturing date...wow- even junky GM can gives up fuse data! sorry, I still can't believe it!... Thanks for your time and advice!
sfink
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The front and rear washer is all driven off the same pump in the front. Not uncommon for them to fail. Have had a few threads on them. Not a fun task to get to, on the Mk1 Tiguan's as you have to pull the bumper off but it's an easy swap. If you have vcds it would probably have an error for pump failure or non communication. There isn't a fuse just for the pump it's tired in with another system. Just remember these VWs are CanBus driven, and reasoning behind no fuse diagrams is there was no real set pattern when these got wired between trim levels and options. Why if you do your own work having a DMM, a test light and VCDS is Crutial.
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VCDS is VagCom just the proper name for it. VAG Communication Diagnostic System, most scan tools even CanBus friendly will do go into each individual module and system and allow destiny and output tests. Easiest thing to do is have someone hold the washer lever in was mode and see if the pump makes noise by opening the fill lid (it's got fluid right) and see if the pump makes noise if not its most likely bad. There has been 3-4 failures on this page alone on the last few months. With vcds you can go into the module and do an output test on just the pump and it would spit back communication error or open shirt to ground or various other faults. Just remember on new VWs everything has it's own module down the CanBus ladder. Everything is tied to the BCM (body control module) and CanBus module. But it also could be another fault causing it not to work. It's an overly complex system and needs the proper tools to do proper diagnostic work.
A CanBus friendly scanner will still only read generic error codes. Vcds will go into each module pull DTC codes out and tell you what each fault is. Some faults are stored and won't turn on an error light. There is 5 levels of errors. 5 being minor and 1 being it turns on a fault light. Some are stored and left to see if they happen again then the fault status moves up the ladder the more times it faults the higher priority it gets. Normal comm errors and intermittent short to ground may stay a level 3 fault and go no further. Once you learn it it's actually ba great system but has taken a lot of diagnostic work away from the normal person.
Just remember be careful where you probe. Some systems don't use 12v some things run on as little as 1-2v. Your brake lights actually bare single filament. It uses 8v to run them as park tail lights and depending on where it's set on vcds as low as 10v for brakes. I change the setting for headlights and brakes to 14v to make them as bright as allowed.
Good luck and we are here if you have questions
A CanBus friendly scanner will still only read generic error codes. Vcds will go into each module pull DTC codes out and tell you what each fault is. Some faults are stored and won't turn on an error light. There is 5 levels of errors. 5 being minor and 1 being it turns on a fault light. Some are stored and left to see if they happen again then the fault status moves up the ladder the more times it faults the higher priority it gets. Normal comm errors and intermittent short to ground may stay a level 3 fault and go no further. Once you learn it it's actually ba great system but has taken a lot of diagnostic work away from the normal person.
Just remember be careful where you probe. Some systems don't use 12v some things run on as little as 1-2v. Your brake lights actually bare single filament. It uses 8v to run them as park tail lights and depending on where it's set on vcds as low as 10v for brakes. I change the setting for headlights and brakes to 14v to make them as bright as allowed.
Good luck and we are here if you have questions
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4,390 Posts
Lights on the hatch by default turn off when raised. No need to have them in with it raised so they turn off. Make sure the hatch and hood are comply closed or wipers will not activate. Also make sure the lever is all the way forward, and the wiper is set in 10 seconds fixed delay. Hopefully nothing serious as toward the end of my build thread I gave had the cover off. It's not easy to get off and even harder to get back together correctly with lots of twisting if plastics. Vgrtvit scanned with VCDS first and foremost clear all errors that could have it locked out. Also you can code out the rear wiper easily. I run a longer AH400 wiper to clear more glass added tear wipe but disabled wipe on reverse to prevent said scratches. But like I mentioned the pumps up front, and a long hose routes fluid clear to the back so it can freeze and split the hose so even not being used be sure to occasionally run it or cap it off up front so it won't split if you live in winter country.
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4,390 Posts
Glad it sorted itself out. Just make sure you keep a good winter mix in the tank when it comes to freezing time and run the rear washer occasionally to keep it clear.
And thanks. I like the OEM+ Life. Keep it factory looking and people scratching their heads. Lol
And thanks. I like the OEM+ Life. Keep it factory looking and people scratching their heads. Lol
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