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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Everybody!
Happy to have found this community forum. Picked up my first Tig (2010 W.E) about a week ago, and have been actively chugging away at things to get to the state of having no actual functional errors. Tough ask for a VW, I know 😂. I bought this car as somewhat of a fixer-upper, for a good price.. and because it ran very well, and I wasn’t exactly familiar with the water intrusion issues.. i jumped on it.

I’ll start by saying that all 4 of the sunroof drains had failed. The rear two tubes had completely dislodged from the outlet rubbers that exit the body, and tubes were feeding directly into the back/side trunk compartments, where you might find the jack/storage. The front two were also dislodged from their grommets that drain under the front cowl, and those were pretty much draining directly onto the front floors - after making its way over numerous electronic components, presumably. Long story short, I got the carpets all dried up, have tended to and sealed up all the drains and now all 4 are in good shape and there is no more water intrusion, I believe. Great. Moving on…

Now that I have had this vehicle for some days, I am realizing it’s true issues. And I am starting to get the sense (after trying to get to the bottom of this!) that these issues may all be intertwined by some module/connector/relay/ or wire.

The main thing I am aiming to tackle, is an error 02511 004 - Control Module for Passenger Seat Occupied Recognition J706 - No Signal / Communication.
This is causing a persistent Air Bag light, as expected, and I can’t get an inspection sticker with that light on! I have never been a “take it to the dealer” type of person, and really like to exhaust all options and resources before even throwing something like this at any shop, for countless hours of electrical diagnostic, and no resolution. (had similar gremlins in the past with Audi’s, no shop has ever found a true electrical issue resolution for me)

Thus far, I have :
-Tried to clear the code, to no avail.
-replaced the j706 module, to no avail.
-confirmed power at connector to j706 module
-visually torn apart and inspected all wiring that i can gain access to from the seats all the way thru the floors up until where they go up into the dash
-cleaned all connectors possibly affected by the water intrusion (only a couple non-related wires had slight corrosion. cleaned)
-confirmed grounds
-Checked every last fuse in the engine bay, and passenger compartment

I have now signed up for a subscription to AllData and have been scouring thru wiring diagrams all day and my head is ready to explode. I can sort of grasp the concepts of what I’m looking, but not fully.

What I have come across while looking into these diagrams, is a lot of OTHER things that are not functional, are tying back to fuse 13, and “wire 8” from the instrument panel. I have yet to determine what this may mean.

Other items that are simply 100% non-functional are as follows:
-Passenger occupancy sensor (no signal)
-Driver Heated Seat
-Passenger Heated Seat
-Driver motorized back rest (this is REALLY inconvenient)
-Auto-Hold button and the amber light on the switch.
I should also mention that there was a persistent Parking Brake error on the dash, and the diag showed the error was for the amber light on the auto hold button short to ground. Parking brake / auto hold unit was replaced, code cleared, error light resolved - but auto hold STILL does not work or light up.

I am hoping that there is an electrical guru in here who can shed some light on this situation, short of replacing every harness in the car, or taking it to the Stealership. After reading all these diagrams today, I am now wondering if there is a certain module or relay that might account for all those specific things to not work at the same time? I suppose it’s not too crazy that they may have all fried individually, but seems unlikely. Also, what unit/module “reads” the signal from the J706 seat occupancy sensor? The CCM? The cluster itself? ..I am beginning to thing THAT might be the issue, maybe from electrical surge or something of the sort.

If you have read all this, Thank you for taking the time! Any and all input is greatly appreciated!
 

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2010 Tiguan 2.0 TDI 4Motion R-line 177HP
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Just for starters, what are you using to read and clear the fault codes? Most generic code readers are no good. VCDS or Obdeleven are the better options.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just for starters, what are you using to read and clear the fault codes? Most generic code readers are no good. VCDS or Obdeleven are the better options.
Thanks for the reply! I am using a version of VCDS that was “given” to me along with a cable. I have seen tons of people getting some real flack for even mentioning that they use this, so I didn’t post a scan. I also have OBDeleven Pro.
 

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First off make sure the passenger seat is plugged in to the harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
First off make sure the passenger seat is plugged in to the harness.
It certainly is. The entire seat has been removed, every connection, harness, and wire inspected. All harnesses have been contact cleaned and re-connected, both on the seat itself, as well as the 4 connectors recessed beneath the carpet. I have also confirmed power and earth at the end of the connector that goes to the module on the seat, so it definitely getting juice. What I can’t see to figure out how to test.. is the signal wire that goes to.. whatever it goes to from the j706 seat occupancy module. Looking at this diagram here, I am starting to think the signal wire might be the ro -> bl wire from j706 (seat module) to j234 (airbag module)

really hoping somebody who has faced a no connection / no signal error before can chime in. maybe even somebody who can make more sense of these diagrams that myself 😅
Rectangle Parallel Font Engineering Schematic
 

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There should be a 10 pin connector where it changes from Ro ( Red) to black. I’m fighting the same on a 07 Honda Fit. Ended up being a faulty airbag module. Once these modules set off an airbag or pretensioner the module needs replacing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
There should be a 10 pin connector where it changes from Ro ( Red) to black. I’m fighting the same on a 07 Honda Fit. Ended up being a faulty airbag module. Once these modules set off an airbag or pretensioner the module needs replacing.
And that is EXACTLY where the break in the wire was, right at that 10-pin connector. Connector T10e, as circled in the diagram. Today i got to checking continuity from the wires at the g452 pressue sensor to j706, and from j706 to the connectors beneath the seat. All checked out. After testing continuity from the depicted signal line from j706 to the airbag module (j234) .. it did not have continuity. I RE-inspected connector T10e, the exact one you called out, funny enough, where the red signal wire changes to blue on the opposing connector, and the blue wire crunched and fell out as I was inspecting it. I connected the wires with a butt connector, and just skipped over the corroded connector.

Issue resolved, airbag error light off, and I’m ready for an inspection sticker. All the other issues mentioned are probably related to MORE corroded wiring on the driver side seat area. That’s for another day.

Appreciate everybody’s input.. and I have provided a couple pictures of the diagram with the problem wire outlined, with hopes that anybody also facing a NO SIGNAL / NO COMMUNICATION j706 error may find useful.
Electrical wiring Asphalt Gas Electrical supply Technology

Rectangle Parallel Font Engineering Diagram
 

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Bullseye! Glad you got it sorted!!
 
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This is a prime example for a single wire causing the BCM to trigger multiple faults even in unrelated systems! Again good job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Nice! Good to see a resolution!
Yes! That is one of my peeves on forums and communities like this.. when people don’t post their resolutions! lol

This is a prime example for a single wire causing the BCM to trigger multiple faults even in unrelated systems! Again good job.
Actually, this wire only solved the airbag issue, and the auto-hold issue.
The heated seats / motorized backrest are still not working on the driver seat. I initially thought that all the issues may be related, but they are not. But now that I see what happened at the connectors on the passenger side, I would bet something similar is has occurred at the connectors of the driver seat from the old water damage and corrosion. Underneath the driver’s seat is where the heated seat module for both seats lives, as well as the switch for the motorized backrest. At least i’m hoping that the issue with those is something similar to deal with.
 

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That’s a very good guess another plug is damages as well. Good luck!
 

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Hi there,
Does anyone know where I can get the drivers side 10 pin power seat connector/pigtail in the body side floor wiring harness. We have had the water ingress problem and the power seat is not working because several connectors on the back side of the plug have corroded completely off. The wiring from the seat looks like it is okay along with the plug for the airbag and the other two pin plug in the floor.
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi there,
Does anyone know where I can get the drivers side 10 pin power seat connector/pigtail in the body side floor wiring harness. We have had the water ingress problem and the power seat is not working because several connectors on the back side of the plug have corroded completely off. The wiring from the seat looks like it is okay along with the plug for the airbag and the other two pin plug in the floor. View attachment 33101
I had trouble finding them myself. Funny you mention the driver power seat not working.. mine STILL doesn't work either. After tending to my passenger airbag wiring issue, I just haven't gotten around to tinkering with the driver side wiring yet. Lucky enough, I bought the car with the motorized back rest in an.. "acceptable" position, lol. If you can't find a replacement harness, or cant track one down in a scrap yard.. I would suggest maybe doing exactly what I did with my airbag connector harness that had broken wires. Get your hands on a diagram (wont even need one if you can tell which wires connect to which), and simply bypass the harness connector. Chop up the wires and either butt-connect the correct wires directly to each other, that is if you plan on never taking the seat out again. The smarter choice would be space connectors to replace where the harness clipped together. Instead of that clip harness, you'll just have wire-to-wire connection. Same concept.
 

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I had trouble finding them myself. Funny you mention the driver power seat not working.. mine STILL doesn't work either. After tending to my passenger airbag wiring issue, I just haven't gotten around to tinkering with the driver side wiring yet. Lucky enough, I bought the car with the motorized back rest in an.. "acceptable" position, lol. If you can't find a replacement harness, or cant track one down in a scrap yard.. I would suggest maybe doing exactly what I did with my airbag connector harness that had broken wires. Get your hands on a diagram (wont even need one if you can tell which wires connect to which), and simply bypass the harness connector. Chop up the wires and either butt-connect the correct wires directly to each other, that is if you plan on never taking the seat out again. The smarter choice would be space connectors to replace where the harness clipped together. Instead of that clip harness, you'll just have wire-to-wire connection. Same concept.
My problem is that a couple of the wires that corroded off were right at the pin, so I don't know which wires need to be connected together for a couple of them because the body side connector has a couple different colour wires than the seat side connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
My problem is that a couple of the wires that corroded off were right at the pin, so I don't know which wires need to be connected together for a couple of them because the body side connector has a couple different colour wires than the seat side connector.
I hear ya. That's exactly what happened in my situation too. Wires broken and corroded right out of the connectors. I purchased the tiguan alldata service manual.. I believe it was the 30 day trial for about $20 if I'm not mistaken. The diagrams showed me exactly which color wires connected to which. It has the wire colors labelled and everything. And you're right, the wire color on either side of the connector is different. In my situation, I think the broken airbag wire was blue on one side, and red on the other. Something to consider. Good Luck.
 

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I hear ya. That's exactly what happened in my situation too. Wires broken and corroded right out of the connectors. I purchased the tiguan alldata service manual.. I believe it was the 30 day trial for about $20 if I'm not mistaken. The diagrams showed me exactly which color wires connected to which. It has the wire colors labelled and everything. And you're right, the wire color on either side of the connector is different. In my situation, I think the broken airbag wire was blue on one side, and red on the other. Something to consider. Good Luck.
Where did you find the connector and wire color information in alldata. I signed up, but can't find the wiring diagram where the driver seat plugs into the wiring harness on the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Where did you find the connector and wire color information in alldata. I signed up, but can't find the wiring diagram where the driver seat plugs into the wiring harness on the floor.
My subscription to alldata has since expired, but i remember there was a search function. I would start by maybe typing in “seat” or “seat switch” or maybe “seat wire diagram”.. should lead you somewhere. Then in all their summaries, every time a module or connector is referenced, they were clickable to go to other info pages/diagrams.. It did take a bit of hunting, as I recall. Also, once you find a wiring diagram.. the colors will be listed on each wire, and have a legend that tells which code means which color.
 
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