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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, this is the background info ...

2011 Tig 4-Motion purchased it in February, 2020 with 68k miles on it and now pushing 87k miles.

Almost from the get-go, I noticed a slight to quite noticeable "SHAKE" pulling away from a traffic light, stop sign, etc., as well as in many low speed grades.

No CEL .......... nothing shows up when I do a scan with my Ross-Tech OBD II Scan software.

No misfiring

Tires seem perfectly in balance under any other condition such as cruising at 70 mph, etc.

No ripped CV Joint Boots

Manually down-shifting to increase RPMs during certain circumstances seems to help a little...

Thoughts?
 

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How the tire wear look? Any issues at full lock one way or the other? When was the last time the transmission, Haldex and differentials serviced? To me sounds like the pump screen in the Haldex may be sludged up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The Tires (Good Year) look fine with no cupping, etc.

I did do a Transmission Fluid Change at 70k as well as the filter by BluParts. I noticed the shake before changing the fluid.

That was my 2nd Tig fluid change and the other one is doing fine.
 

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So nothing on the Haldex? Should be done every 40k.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited by Moderator)
So nothing on the Haldex? Should be done every 40k.
I purchased at 68k miles on the odometer ... 2k miles later at 70k miles, I did the transmission service using a BluParts kit.

As for the Halidex, I did not change the oil. Maybe I should have. But, I seriously doubt that to be the problem considering there is zero indication of an oil leak. Edit: Thus, should not be low ..... and, surely, going past a "recommended" interval is causing this crazy problem!
 

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It's the sludging of the screen in the pump that is is issue. There is a filter the dealer doesn't carry and a screen on the pump that plugs. So at lower speeds it's not getting enough fluid causing the clutches to chatter a bit on takeoff. Haldex is always partially engaged and when you take off a certain percentage depending bon how heavy of a foot you have diverts power to the rear. Fluid also breaks down as well as it's a clutch pack. Then like I mentioned it's a good idea to service the front and rear differentials as well. The shutter could also be the prop shaft rubber insert bad motor mount, bad dog bone / pendulum. There is quite the list but I usually focus on the service side when buying an unknown service history vehicle. Since tires look good we can rule out struts, shocks, wheel bearings etc. No torn boots so VCs are good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Okay, digging thru the service records/receipts that were in the glove box, it looks like the Halidex, etc., was serviced at slightly under 44k miles. So, now it has almost another 44k miles.

Well, I believe this may be the problem, so I'll order all the necessary stuff to service it!

Thanks!
 

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We have a few topics on the service. ECS sells a complete kit reasonable.. and it's just another few bucks to do the diffs. 2Lts us all that's needed if fine right. Front is a bit under in backs a bit over. Do not confuse the drain and fill plugs in the Haldex. The forward ones are for the Haldex the rears are the diff. If a dealer did the Haldex the filter was not changed as it's not a dealer stock item. And very few pull the pump to clean the screen. While you are getting familiar with it's underside have a peek at the dog bone insert in the cross member. I changes mine out at 40k when it got floppy. But I'm a very spirited driver. Lol installed and HPA TDI density puck.

Also you are getting into the range for the carbon clean... Watch out for random misfires, and poor performance. 60-80k is recommended. Pull the intake and walnut blast is the best method. Also being you have an 2011 if it hadn't been done. Get the timing chain tensioner inspected asap. You gave the first gen that fails in an if not but when situation. They remedied it in mid 2012 for the 13 models.

Lots of little stuff. If you have an inspection camera you can look in the intake and inspect the tensioner easily.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes, although I've been driving and doing maintenance on my own VWs since 1973, the Tiguan is a new animal to me. Since 1980, VW diesels have been my life.

I've watched several YouTubes on the Tig engine, especially the Intake Cleaning and upgrading the Timing Chain Tensioner.

Thanks much!
 

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2010 Tiguan 2.0 TDI 4Motion R-line 177HP
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I would take for a wheel alignment first to eliminate that.
 

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Hello AndyBees,

Is it a feeling that the Tiguan is trying to get grip and you feel a wheels skipping / jumping as you pull away?

If the Haldex controller goes faulty or blows the fuse then you may not see any fault codes.

This website is worth read, (you'll have a Haldex Gen $ system fitted to your Tiguan)

https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/guide-generation-4-haldex-trouble-shooting/
Wow! Thanks very much for the info and Link. I do have a filter on order. I plan to check with a local FLAPS to see if they have the fluid.

Thanks again.
 

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I had similar shakes on a Renault Laguna. It was the driveshaft inner CV joint. It has worn slight dips in the outer where the 3 bearings of the spigot locate. The wear was only slight, only just noticable when the joint was cleaned out, could just feel it rubing my finger down the groove.

With mine the shaking was only when accelerating straight ahead. It did not shake when accelerating while turning (i.e on a fast curved slip road).
 

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I would take for a wheel alignment first to eliminate that.
I second that - I had no problems, no uneven tyre wear but the alignment still needed doing.

As for Iggy's comments, geez we are lucky to have your skills and experience - brilliant list of potential causes.
 
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Been working on and been around cars all my life. It's amazing how one tiny thing can cause an issue. I had a Corolla that had an almost harmonic vibration at higher soeeds no one cold figure out. I pretty much lived with it, wheels, tires, bushings etc all changed. One afternoon I replaced the pads on the front and found a wheel weight had somehow fallen in the cooling fins if the rotor. Took it back to the dealer to show the problem. And they wouldn't believe it. Lol I've got a vibration on the Tiguan myself right now I'm thinking is the carrier bearing starting to let me know it's going out. But I only see it at above 80 mph. Lol. Right in the seat if my pants. My butt Dyno is picking it up. Lol
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, considering the history of the 2.0T engine in these Tigs, I drive it easy........ no jack-rabbit starts and never above 70 MPH. So, now with the shake issue likely being the Haldex System, I plan to be even more easier with it until I do the oil and filter change as well as cleaning of the screen. Everything has been ordered!
 

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Honestly driving these TSI motors easy is a bad thing. Tends to build up carbon on the valves even faster. Lugging it around town at low rpm is not good. Keep it in sport mode keep the RPMs up and these motors last longer and run better. Just watch out for the early revision on timing chain tensioner yours came with. Any new nosies under the hood other than the noisy injectors get the tensioner inspection stat.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, I have the Tig up on Jack Stands to change the oil and service the Haldex.

It has an oil leak which appears to be coming from up top and drains down where engine and transmission mate which makes it appear to the be the rear crankshaft seal. If the oil wasn't coming from so high up, I'd think it is the rear main seal for sure ...... and, it may be both. I've had to add about 1 quart of oil in 8k miles. So, for now, I plan to let that issue ride for a while.

Also, checking the front CV Joints, it appears that the right front inner joint is likely bad ..... Hmmmm with only 88k original miles! This may be part of the shake since the shake seems to be more in the front than in the rear.

The Haldex did throw a code which my Ross-Tech OBD Software picked up. The code specifics I do not remember, but in the narrative the pump was mentioned. So, when I service the Haldex (oil, filter and clean the pump screen), hopefully I will only find a clogged screen!

I'll provide an update!
 

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Pump more than likely dead if the services have been missed. I had that with mine.
 
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