VW Tiguan Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Here's the rub.

Back Story - Skip to the Important Part in Bold if you're busy.

Swapped out the engine on our 191k Tiguan- primarily because the upper balance shaft seal was shot and I was tired of driving in sport mode after 20,000 miles just to keep the oil psi up.

Got a used motor with 97k on it - trans, diff, all accessories including a/c (which works like a champ surprisingly), and even the main harness...

Except. The one thing that was broken on the harness, was the sensor that goes into the side of the trans.

I took the time to unloom the whole harness from the car, however, if anyone has been into these transmissions, you'll know that when you pull the side sensor on the trans, behind it, are just wires leading around the valve body and into the transmission for the sensors.

I did everything I could to try and pull the whole harness out, but there was no way I was going to be able to get them out without dropping the body inside the trans, so I called my Euro pal, and asked -Hey, if I used unshielded butt connectors and keep the wiring the same distance, it's LV, I won't mess with resistance right?

"Nope!" Use unshielded then just heat shrink them.

DONE...
I splice the harness, wire in the original trans interior harness to the original main harness, button everything up, and pressed the start button.

The starter didn't get a rotation and it fired right up. So, naturally, I take it nice and slow.
10 minute ride, full cool down.
45 minute ride, full cool down.

Drive it to work for about a week, everything is flawless, most of the time would find myself impressed that it was shifting so smooth from the 191k vehicle that suffered an onslaught of abuse every day.

Then comes Sunday, after 700+ miles of smooth driving.
Get in the vehicle, let it run for about 30 seconds as normal, and put it into reverse.

Slammed into gear. I was taken back a little but figured whatever, start driving. About 20 minutes into the drive, the (P) - [Not park] - light comes on, and I notice she's hesitating and it seems to shift a bit funky - not slipping, but struggling to find out where she should be almost.

Get on the highway on the way home and she's smooth, 20% increase on throttle has her downshifting smoothly just to be current. Nothing out of the ordinary.

CEL throws. I get home, plug into the scanner, and there are no codes, so I know there's a trans pcm issue. Have my brother come over with the OBD11 and we start investigating.

Now, I'm going to attempt to determine tomorrow if the fluid level is low - because I did it myself when we put the motor in, so didn't have a computer to reset the AT PCM.

However, these were the codes that were thrown
Trans Control ModuleFault U1026Priority 0Frequency Counter 8
Requirement - Malfunction Lamp OnFault P1624Priority 0Frequency Counter 1
Transmission control moduleFault 01315Priority 3Frequency Counter 16
Input turbine speed sensor "a" circ. (Electrical error in circuit)Fault P0715Priority 2Frequency Counter 4
Transmission control moduleFault 01315Priority 2
Frequency Counter 17

Any suggestions? Not one to throw parts at a vehicle, but if someone can lead me to the answer, I would be happy to Tip!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,142 Posts
First off get proper codes and DTCs. It using a generic scanner. They may point to some of the issues but VCDS or OBd11 and please screen shot them. That way we can see the root issues. All these codes xould point to one faulty component. Is hate to toss larts at it guessing when it could be a $5 part.


When you did the swap was the transmission fully serviced?

but start ofd with a total system drain and reset.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply!
These are the codes directly out of OBD11, it didn't provide much more information outside of what I specifically listed here with the exception of static and runtime information.

The system was completely empty when we got the engine and trans, so a few heat cycles and up and down the driveway to get fluid in and everywhere was done and it was mint until this issue.

Going to get the trans fully serviced this weekend and go from there I suppose.

Would this have anything to do with the parking brake light being on aswell?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,142 Posts
Try a full electric system drain first to reboot everything. Also make sure the cable from the chassis to the transmission is not corroded. Then see of it changes anything. Electrical gremlins are a pain even harder when I'm diagnosing remotely.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So, to recap, I did the full service this weekend. Trans seems to operate fully when shifting manually, but between 2/3 it hesitates wanting to shift into the next gear. Regardless of startup time, if i swing it straight to S, it seems to take it okay but as soon as i put it into reverse or drive it smacks like a mount is bad. Parking Light is still on along with CEL.

The oddball with this for me is that it's likely that it ran low on fluid for a few miles, but it was a night and day issue... Put the whole engine and trans in consulted with dealer about doing a service and they indicated that I did the service per book. Used a thermo to make sure the trans was at 30-40c and ran it through the gears while adding the fluid. Had intermittent drippage from the stem.. Put it back in park, sealed the trans, but still wants to knock hard coming out of park.

I'm presuming that there might be some type of seal damage in the valve train considering it's only a very few specific points in the shift spots. However, that being said, I'm still at a bit of a loss as to why it came on suddenly.

I do still have the trans from the 190k original engine that I have no problem swapping, but, I also don't want to just throw it in there, and find out it's a PCM issue.

Long story short, the only thing I can guess is that the side sensor we cut, butt connected, and heat shrinked, might be causing electrical failure. I haven't yet inspected the tubing and wire connections. But these issues only presented themselves after 700 miles of driving, and again, is only at very specific points. Manual shifting, even being semi-aggressive 50%+ throttle, there's zero slippage or indication that the trans is low on fluid or there's a lack of pressure.

First thing tomorrow, I'm going to check the grounding cables and make sure there's no stupid "gremlins" that could be causing a minor issue to seem like a large one... Appreciate your advice.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,142 Posts
If electrics check good i suspect the Valve Body. Sonnax makes a great upgrade valve body that remedies a lot of the 09G/09M issues. But be prepared to cough up $1300-2000 for it from base to fully equipped with all solenoids. Not a bars job but it takes dropping the pan. (You did change the filter?)
I used Titan 4400 Kit. Titan is a great ATF recommended by another former admin. Also you can pull the drivers side liner down access the TCM tucked up in it. Turn the key to the on position for 15 seconds then off and within 10 seconds unplug the TCM. What this does os create a write fault in the TCM forcing it to flash itself to stock settings when plugged back in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Welp, ended up being the internal turbine speed sensor, which was masking a selenoid issue. Luckily for us the trans was replaced with an even lower milage unit free of charge. Appreciate the input, we'll likely be rebuilding the original one with your suggestions as a backup, thank you!
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top