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Calliper siezed & bad brake Fluid

Calliper Brake Fluid

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#1 OFFLINE   iangaryprice

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Posted 14 March 2021 - 03:33 PM

I've had a busy day. My Tig has not been used much lately due to Covid resrictions and working form home means no commuting.

Last week I had a 70mile round trip to pick up my Diving drysuit.

On the way I had some vibrations on the steering wheel, put it down to maybea wheel gone out of balance.

On the way back vibrations got worse, then I noticed I was only gwtting 25mpg on a flat road at 50mph!

Pulled over and the nearside front wheel was very hot. Let it cool down and manged to get home, it seemed to free off after breaking hard a few times.

 

So this weekend, I rebuilt the calliper with new seals and piston. Painted the calliper while it was stripped down, - don't like the paint colour, ordered Gun Metal Grey, to me its more like mid grey.

Rebuild went well.

Brake fluid - service history for my car says brake fluid was changed 2 years ago. I doubt it! See photo for the state of what came out!Attached File  Bad_fluid.JPG   58.25KB   1 downloads.

After seeing that, I then bled the entire system so its now full of fresh clean fluid.

Oil change needed now then an MOT.

 

 



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#2 ONLINE   Old Dog

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Posted 14 March 2021 - 03:51 PM

Great when you can do things like this yourself. :twoup: :twoup:

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#3 OFFLINE   iangaryprice

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Posted 14 March 2021 - 05:24 PM

Great when you can do things like this yourself. :twoup: :twoup:

Doing it myself i know its been done - my nephew works is a mechanic, worked at a few independents. He said one garage classed a brake fluid change as - siphon the fluid out the master cylinder reservoir - refill with fresh - clean outside of the reservoir.



#4 ONLINE   Old Dog

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Posted 14 March 2021 - 05:30 PM

He said one garage classed a brake fluid change as - siphon the fluid out the master cylinder reservoir - refill with fresh - clean outside of the reservoir.


:shock:

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#5 OFFLINE   IggytheTiggy

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Posted 14 March 2021 - 06:41 PM

Yep. Most dealers here do that too suck it out refill reservoir. Charge $200 for flush. I'm due to have mine done but I am waiting for warmer weather do I can be without a rig a few days.
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#6 OFFLINE   iangaryprice

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Posted 14 March 2021 - 08:43 PM

Yep. Most dealers here do that too suck it out refill reservoir. Charge $200 for flush. I'm due to have mine done but I am waiting for warmer weather do I can be without a rig a few days.

The trouble with only changing the fluid in the reservoir is, most of the muck and any water is in the callipers - at the bottom of the system. You realy need to pump the fresh fluid through to get all the old fluid out.

I used a Gunsons Eezi Bleed, it pushes the fluid through the system when you open the bleed nipples, uses a spare tyre as a pressure source (set to 15psi max) It has a reservoir as well so it tops up the master cylinder. I used about 0.7litre fo fluid to flush the whole system through. (1 litre VW brake fluid £17 ~ $20).

#7 OFFLINE   tricky

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Posted 14 March 2021 - 10:31 PM

 

So this weekend, I rebuilt the calliper with new seals and piston. Painted the calliper while it was stripped down, - don't like the paint colour, ordered Gun Metal Grey, to me its more like mid grey.

Rebuild went well.

Brake fluid - service history for my car says brake fluid was changed 2 years ago. I doubt it! See photo for the state of what came out!attachicon.gifBad_fluid.JPG.

After seeing that, I then bled the entire system so its now full of fresh clean fluid.

Oil change needed now then an MOT.

 

Thought the picture was the paint not the brake fluid  :razz:


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#8 OFFLINE   IggytheTiggy

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Posted 15 March 2021 - 04:08 AM

I'm going to be using some better brake fluid myself ATE brand and it's Blue. Supposed to not be as bad about moisture and definitely bless brake fade when driving aggressively.
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#9 OFFLINE   Aokuan

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Posted 22 March 2021 - 10:23 AM

I'm having a similar problem to this currently - I've jacked up the wheel and can't really find any noticeable difference in force required to turn the wheels.

 

Fuel economy dropped about 15 mpg suddenly about 4 months ago, so I'm guessing it is a brake drag related problem.. 

 

Just had 4 new Michelin Cross Climate SUV tires fitted this weekend and the wheel alignment done (all 4 wheels out of alignment) and the car is suddenly pulling to the right. Before this, the vehicle was driving straight and true, but the front left hand side tyre was more worn than the right so I had all 4 changed as they was all due a change due to age. 

 

Checked the brake rotors this morning after driving to work and found that the drivers side rotor is running at 120c, as opposed to all of the others at 30-40c.

 

I took the calliper off and used a G clamp to push the piston back in and opened the bleeder valve. It seemed to go in easy enough so its a bit strange for it to be behaving like this. 

 

Does anyone have any suggestions? I wish it were as simple as OP's problem! 



#10 OFFLINE   shawng

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Posted 22 March 2021 - 12:23 PM

Just because it went in with the force of a clamp, does not mean it is not sticking. Keep an eye on it over the next day or so. Also did you check the slider pins to see if they are clean and free. Did you lube them before reassembly? did the pull go away after your work?


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#11 OFFLINE   Aokuan

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Posted 22 March 2021 - 12:48 PM

Thank you for the reply. I did indeed check the slider pins, there wasnt any lubrication on them at all, just a bit of dirt which I used just a bit of sandpaper to remove and clean them. That said, I didn't think this particular type requires lubrication. Am I wrong here?

Sadly no change since cleaning them off and reinstalling the caliper :(

#12 OFFLINE   IggytheTiggy

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Posted 22 March 2021 - 06:36 PM

How long has it been since a full brake flush has been done. It should be tested every 2 years and flushed at a max of 3. Bad fluid with moisture will cause pitting on the piston and make them stick and not slide on the seals.
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#13 OFFLINE   iangaryprice

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Posted 22 March 2021 - 07:23 PM

I'm having a similar problem to this currently - I've jacked up the wheel and can't really find any noticeable difference in force required to turn the wheels.

 

Fuel economy dropped about 15 mpg suddenly about 4 months ago, so I'm guessing it is a brake drag related problem.. 

 

Just had 4 new Michelin Cross Climate SUV tires fitted this weekend and the wheel alignment done (all 4 wheels out of alignment) and the car is suddenly pulling to the right. Before this, the vehicle was driving straight and true, but the front left hand side tyre was more worn than the right so I had all 4 changed as they was all due a change due to age. 

 

Checked the brake rotors this morning after driving to work and found that the drivers side rotor is running at 120c, as opposed to all of the others at 30-40c.

 

I took the calliper off and used a G clamp to push the piston back in and opened the bleeder valve. It seemed to go in easy enough so its a bit strange for it to be behaving like this. 

 

Does anyone have any suggestions? I wish it were as simple as OP's problem! 

My nearside disc/rotor was running hot, I didn't have my laser thermometer with me at the time but I expect it was a lot hotter than 120c. I couldn't touch the wheel, even the tyre was hot.

Most noticable symptom while driving were bad fuel cosumption (similar to you) vibration in the steering wheel (possibly a slightly out of true disc/rotor. The following day I took it for a drive and it didn't get hot.

When I stripped the calliper, the fluid was bad (see photo) and there was corrosion on the piston. The seal was sticky as well, there was rubber stuck to the piston. The slide pins needed a good clean as well.

I would recommend your overhaul/replace the offending calliper. Also flush the fluid htrough. As said above old fluid could contain water which will cause corrosion.



#14 OFFLINE   Aokuan

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Posted 23 March 2021 - 02:15 AM

Thank you for the help. Looks like it'll be a rebuild and a flush then.

I know it's been over 3 years since it had its last brake fluid flush that's for sure.

Would you mind me asking where you got your rebuild kit from? Seems like loads of places to buy it from, but no idea if any are any good.

I'll let in on the cause once this gets solved

#15 OFFLINE   IggytheTiggy

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Posted 23 March 2021 - 03:24 AM

Maybe one of the UK members can chime in as the outlets I use might not be available. I've honestly never rebuilt a vw caliper but done bikes and other cars. Usually have to go oem or thru a decent parts supplier.
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#16 OFFLINE   shawng

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Posted 23 March 2021 - 12:47 PM

With good prices on remaned or even aftermarket new, there is no good reason to risk doing a rebuild yourself.


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#17 OFFLINE   kev3

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Posted 23 March 2021 - 02:14 PM

I would get a price from TPS which part of the VAG group.

 

They will do seals or complete calipers.

 

Another place to look at is EURO CAR PARTS.



#18 OFFLINE   iangaryprice

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Posted 23 March 2021 - 09:36 PM

The calliper seal kit I got was from BIGRED.

Seals only are about £6, seals & piston £17.

You can get reman callipers for about £28.

If was to do another one I would probably go for a reman Calliper.

It took me ages to clean the rust off the calliper & mount bracket so I could paint it.

I was planning on doing a strip and paint the other 3 but it was so much work, I am just going to wirebrush and paint the bits that are visible through the wheels.



#19 OFFLINE   Aokuan

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Posted 24 March 2021 - 08:11 PM

Thank you all. I've booked it in for a check up on the alignment this Friday. Failing that, I'll be doing a replacement with a reman or aftermarket caliper accompanied by a full flush of fluid.

The temperature of the brake disc is what concerns me.. The others are low enough for you to place your hand on them. Whilst this one you can feel the heat radiating past the wheel. There is also the occasional squealing noise coming from suspected brake when driving along normally, especially when making a right turn.

Will update on the results once the work is done.

Cheers

#20 OFFLINE   shawng

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Posted 24 March 2021 - 09:45 PM

Check the pads for glazing and heat cracks and the rotors for blue heat spots. They might need replacements if they get heat damage

Shawn
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